Red Meat - can it be a food for our future?

Given that it is one of the most carbon-intensive foods on the planet, supposedly causes cancer and contributes to deforestation – is there really a place for red meat in a sustainable future? The situation however, goes beyond environmental concerns and touches on complex social, economic and health dynamics. All of these came under the spotlight in the debate “Red Meat and Alternatives - a Sustainable Approach” held on Wednesday 27^th April by the Grantham Centre for Sustainable Futures.

First up, Megan Larmer from Slow Food USA described how this organisation is using a holistic approach to promote “good, clean, fair food for all” and to “turn the herd” towards more sustainable choices. She made the point that meat is a very divisive issue and that simply telling people to eat less of it is unlikely to bring them on board. Hence Slow Food ambassadors across the world tailor their approach to respect the distinct cultural traditions of their communities. For instance, in the USA the movement organised “Nose-to-Tailgating” events on Superbowl Sunday, where sports fans enjoyed whole-animal barbecues in the parking lots of football stadiums. Meanwhile in Cuba, culinary workshops are helping to spread a mentality where “meat is seen as an added flavour, rather than the centrepiece of the meal”. In Germany, where practices that reduce waste are more established, “Kuttelgespräche” (tripe talks) have proved a hit in showing people how to make nutritious meals out of offal. As Megan explained, besides showcasing sustainable practices, these events play important roles in social cohesion, sharing skills and countering restricted food choices from intensive agriculture.  

From a slow movement to an industry giant – we then heard from Dean Holroyd, Technical and Sustainability Director for Anglo Beef Processors. Despite the fact that “red meat is in the press for all the wrong reasons”, he argued that it will remain an intrinsic part of our diets into the future. “People will eat meat – after all, it has 72 health claims associated with it” he said. “So it is better to influence it from within and to farm it properly”. Similar to the Slow Food movement, ABP is committed to letting nothing go to waste. Any part of the animal that isn’t suitable for human consumption is put to use in all manner of products – including pet food, gelatin for cosmetics and even renewable fuel. As Dean put it; “The only thing we don’t use is the Moo”. Meanwhile, ABP also enforces strict standards regarding animal welfare, carbon dioxide emissions and local sourcing. And it is even possible to introduce these systems at a small scale. “Not all of our suppliers are massive farms” he said. “Most of them are small, mixed arable farms that produce an average of 28 cattle per year”. However high standards come at a cost – in general, red meat products are more expensive in the UK than anywhere else in the world.

 

Red meat - can we really afford it?

Yet Illtud Llyr Dunsford, artisan Welsh farmer, has found that people are prepared to pay for quality, sustainable products that they believe in. Having grown up on a farm that butchers and processed its own livestock, Illtud found it quite a shock to go to University; “It was quite a surprise to realise that people just go and buy meat and to see how disconnected they are”. On taking over his Uncle’s farm in 2004, he was determined to make sure his values shaped his methods at every level. After seeing first-hand how soy cultivation is decimating the Brazilian rainforest, he committed to using alternative protein sources for his animals, such as local cereals and waste products from milk and beer production. He is also a strong supporter of regional breeds, such as the Pedigree Welsh Pig, making the point that although they may not produce such large litters or as much meat by volume, they can be more nutritionally efficient, packing in more nourishment per 100g, and taste better besides. Yet, perhaps surprisingly, he is also open to more modern interventions, including culturing meat from stem cells. This would take waste-reduction to the next level, as you would only grow the meat that you want, without any bones and gristle.

Finally, Tony Davison, a commercial manager for Quorn Foods Ltd, made the case that reducing our red meat intake doesn’t mean confining ourselves to a bland, unexciting diet. Although most people think of Quorn as “the vegetarian option”,Tony was clear to point out the “we are not a vegetarian company, we are a company that produces food that vegetarians can happen to eat”. Developed in the 1960s, Quorn was envisaged as “the first new food since the potato” and one that could be a real solution in the impending food crises. “It is predicted that to feed current meat consumption, we will need to produce 200 million more animals annually by 2050” Tony said. “The numbers don’t stack up – Quorn is a real solution!”. And indeed, it is a remarkably simple process, using the ability of the Fusarium venenatum fungus to turn starch into protein. Simply ferment the microorganisms with glucose, oxygen and a few nutrients, leave them to get on with things then centrifuge off the mycoprotein. It might sound very technical, but Quorn is an incredibly versatile produce that lend itself to all manner of cuisines, all whilst retaining the texture of traditional meat products.

As it’s clear that the status quo simply won’t last for the long term, it’s time we all broadened our minds when it comes to our food-sourcing habits. Whether that means learning how to cook offal, choosing Quorn every now and then or looking out for products from regional breeds, we can all play a part in putting some more green into the red when it comes to meat.